Fashion Design.
Exercise 1. Practice the pronunciation of the words from the
text. Write the transcriptions of the words using a dictionary.
word
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transcription
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word
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transcription
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word
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transcription
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life-style
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customers
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theory
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accessories
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qualify
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modeling
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garments
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productions
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stylists
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exclusively
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unique
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modelers
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sportswear
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philosophy
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license
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Exercise 2. Read and translate the text using a dictionary.
Fashion design is the
applied art dedicated to the design of clothing and lifestyle accessories.
The first fashion
designer who was not merely a dressmaker was Charles Frederick Worth
(1826-1895). Before the former draper set up his maison couture (fashion house)
in Paris, clothing design and creation was handled by largely anonymous
seamstresses, and high fashion descended from styles worn at royal courts.
Worth’s success was such that he was able to dictate to his customers what they
should wear, instead of following their lead as earlier dressmakers had done.
With his unprecedented success, his customers could attach a name and a face to
his designs once they learned that they were from the House of Worth, thus
starting the tradition of having the designer of a house be not only the
creative head but the symbol of the brand as well. Worth’s former apprentice
Paul Poiret opened his own fashion house in 1904, melding the styles of Art
Nouveau and aesthetic dress with Paris fashion. His early Art Deco creations
signaled the demise of the corset from female fashion.
Following in Worth’s and
Poiret’s footsteps were: Patou, Vionnet, Fortuny, Lanvin, Chanel, Mainbocher,
Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, and Dior. Hand in hand with clothing, haute couture
accessories evolved internationally with such names as Guccio Gucci, Thierry Hermès,
Judith Leiber, and others.
The early twentieth
century: Throughout the 1920s and ‘80s, all high fashion
originated in Paris. American and British fashion magazines sent editors to the
Paris fashion shows. Department stores sent buyers to the Paris shows, where
they purchased garments to copy. Both made-to-measure salons and ready-to-wear
departments featured the latest Paris trends, adapted to the stores’
assumptions about the lifestyles and pocket books of American customers.
Post-War fashion:
The fashion houses closed during occupation of Paris during World War II, and
several designers including Mainbocher permanently relocated to New York. Paris
recovered its primacy in the post-war era with Dior’s New Look, but Paris was
never the sole arbiter of trends again.
By the early 1960s,
celebrities were becoming the new Fashion icons, even though they in turn wore
designs from the couturiers of the day: influential “partnerships” of celebrity
and highfashion designer included Audrey Hepburn and Givenchy, and Jackie Kennedy,
Oleg Cassini.
The rise of British
fashion in the mid-sixties and designers such as Mary Quant and Betsey Johnson
signaled the end of French dominance. Taking their cue from street fashion,
these designers catered to a younger consumer and offered retailers a new
source of inspiration. Vivienne Westwood’s street- inspired styles “created”
the image which is now generally considered as Punk.
Later, New York designers
including Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren raised American sportswear to the level
of high fashion. The trend dictation of the old couture houses was over.
Modern fashion design and
designers: Modern fashion design is roughly divided into two
categories, haute couture, and ready-to-wear. A designer’s haute-couture
collection is meant exclusively for private customers and is custom sized, cut
and sewn. To qualify as an official “haute couture” house, a designer or
company must belong to the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture, a Paris-based
body of designers governed by the French Department of Industry that includes
American, Italian, Japanese, and other designers as well. A haute couture house
must show collections twice yearly with at least 35 separate outfits in each
show. It is often shown on the catwalk and in private salons.
Ready-to-wear collections
are not custom made. They are standard sized which makes them more suitable for
larger productions. Ready-to-wear collections can also be divided into
designers/creature collections and Confection collections. Designer/creature
collections have a high quality, a superb finish and a unique cut and design.
These collections are the most trendsetting compared to Haute Couture and
Confection. Designer/creatures ready to wear collections contain often concept
items that represent a certain philosophy or theory. These items are not so
much created for sales but just to make a statement. The designer’s
ready-to-wear collection is also presented on the international catwalks by
people who do fashion modeling.
Confection collections
are the ones we see most commonly in our shops. These collections are designed
by stylists. The brands that produce these collections aim only for a mass
public and are in general not searching for new grammar for the language or a
new point of view on of fashion.
Although many modern
fashion designers work in a “traditional” way - making clothes that are fancy
and expensive, but still based on standard/traditional construction and design
concepts - some designers have broken these “rules” over the years. These
include some now-deceased designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli, who worked in
the thirties, forties, and fifties; Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto, Comme
des Garcons, and Clarence Davis from the early eighties to the present; and
designers from the mid-nineties onward. An example of a modern-day rule-breaker
is Martin Margiela. These designers approach clothing, Fashion and lifestyle
from new angles and explore also the boundaries of Fashion itself in order to
create new concepts and views for fashion design. Their collections are not
only restricted to garments (ready to wear as well as couture) and other
fashion-related products, but also contain work in other media. The works of
this breed of designers can also be placed in a certain Art movement.
Most fashion designers
attend an Academy of fine arts. Fashion design courses are considered applied
arts just like graphic design and interior design.
The types of fashion
designer - stylist versus designer - are often confused. A stylist inspires
his/her designs on existing things, trends and designers collections. A
designer starts from scratch; he/she develops a unique concept and translates
this into garment collections, other lifestyle related products or a statement
in various other types of media. Some designers approach their work just as a
fine arts painter or sculptor.
Inspiration for fashion
designers comes from a wide range of things and cannot be pinpointed exactly.
However, just like all artists, they tend to keep an eye on things going on
world-wide to inspire themselves towards making their future clothes lines.
Most fashion designers
are trained as pattern makers and modelers. A typical design team is made up of
one or more: designer(s), pattern maker(s) /modeler(s), sample maker(s),
buyer(s) and salesman (men). For presentations and catwalk shows the help of
hair dressers, make-up artists, photographers, modeling agencies, the model and
other support companies/professions is called upon.
As fashion became more
and more a large business, designers also began to license products (for
example, perfume and bags).
Vocabulary and Grammar Exercise
Exercise 3.
Find in the text English equivalents for the Russian words:
Russian words
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English equivalents
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Russian words
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English equivalents
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дома высокой моды
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знаменитости
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дизайн одежды
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угождать молодому потребителю
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стиль, носимый при королевском двору
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источник вдохновения
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непредвиденный успех
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поднять до уровня высокой моды
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женская мода
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коллекция предметов женского туалета
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образ жизни
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показывать коллекции
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показы мод
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прикладные искусства
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лицензионная продукция
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модельные агентства
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восстановил свое первенство
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превосходная отделка и уникальный крой
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единственный арбитр тенденций
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исследовать границы самой моды
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влиятельные «партнерские отношения»
знаменитостей и дизайнеров высокой моды
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продукты, связанные с образом жизни
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