Ахунова А. В.,
Учитель английского языка , ХМАО, г. Нефтеюганск
«Школа развития№ 24»
NATIONAL COSTUME AS A REFLECTION OF THE IDENTITY OF
THE BASHKIRS
Traditional Bashkir costume has so far been researched
by representatives of various fields of science: history, philosophy, art
history, technology. Bashkir culture and costumes has been formed in the
conditions of having certain elements close to culture of sedentary or nomadic
tribes.
In the middle of the 20th century ethnographers
distinguished seven costume complexes, varying in their structure, appearance,
silhouette and decorative components, two of the complexes being characterized
by major differences – South-Eastern and North-Western ones. Such great
differences are based on historical processes which took place in the territory
of the Southern Urals in ancient time and the Middle Ages – the time when the
Bashkir ethnos originated [4, 35].
Therefore, the national costume should be considered
in close connection with historical and economic development of the people,
geographical environment, religion and traditions.
In many theoretical works, the costume is considered
to be a part of the material culture, being closely connected with all the
processes of its development. The generalizing works on costume history were
written by A.S. Kamalieva, R.G.
Kuzeev, Z.P. Zdobnova, S.N. Shitova. The
problem of the traditional symbolic stereotypes system has been developed by
the famous ethnographer L.P. Potapov .
The progress of nation can be seen through the changes
in national costume. For example, one of the significant elements of woman’s
costume was breastplates (tusheldrek, hakal, yaga) which covered the slit of a
dress. The form of breastplates is not identical in different areas: from the
form of a triangle to circle, from short to long length till hiplines. Its
major attires were artistically liable patterns and gemstones set in silver.
Traditional Bashkir costume is a bright determinant of
people’s national identity.
The clothing of the men consisted of a wide and a long
shirt with a straight collar neckline, baggy pants, light flared kaftans, vests
and fir coats: bille tyn, tire tyn. Men's hats were tubatais, round
furcaps, malakhais , hats. Old men wore hats in black colours while young men’
hats were green, red and blue. Kemer - traditional wide men's belt with a
jewelry clasp.
Clothing has always been and remains an integral part
of the material culture of the society [2, 86].
Bashkir national clothes reflect the ancient
traditions of Bashkir people and their existence. Bashkir people used
traditional materials for the manufacture of clothing. Mainly they used
domestic cloth, fabrics made of various threads, sheepskin, firs were the basic
materials for making clothes. [5, 87]
Bashkir traditional women's clothing was the most
diverse. The basic clothing Bashkir - it dresses in bright colors
"kuldek" floor-length skirt with a wide and sewn on her flounces. On
the dress Bashkir wore close-fitting vest "kamzul." Also in the 19th
century was the spread apron "alyapkys" of linen fabric. Dark robes
"Yelyan" slightly form-fitting at the waist, worn in all areas of
Bashkiria. In winter, the rich Bashkir wore coats of expensive fur - fox,
marten, beaver, otter.
Traditional costumes are peculiar to or characteristic
of a certain nation or ethnic group, which usually retains strong elements of
the culture from which it originates.
Jewellery Bashkir women largely determined the spatial
differences in the Bashkir folk costume. In the manufacture of jewelry preference
for silver and coral. They also used the carnelian, turquoise, mother of pearl
plates, shells, cowries, gold and brown amber beads, red, green, blue cut
glass. Most of the jewelry included necklaces Bashkir (muyynsak), occipital
hair clips (elkelek, elkemes), suspension (suk, sulpy), badges for bibs and
hats (kash), earrings (alka, pyrha), bracelets (belezek, bezelek), rings
(yezek, baldak), fasteners (kaptyrma) [7,118].
Today a lot of designers of Bashkortostan are guided
by popular traditions creating their collections. They use such traditional
materials as leather, velvet, silk, felt.
The Bashkir national costume has accumulated all the
experience of Bashkir people. In its culturological aspect, the costume
represents a code of spiritual values, an artistic and symbolic reflection of
the world outlook of the Bashkir ethnos. The surrounding natural and
socio-cultural environment has determined the context, in which the Bashkir
national costume exists: its «practical» philosophy, its religious senses and
its artistic tradition, the peoples rituals and their way of living. The
culturological function of the Bashkir national costume becomes a way of
reflecting the Bashkir national world order and their ethnical
self-identification.
National costumes have never lost their meaning. The
traditional national costumes turn out to have gained more importance in the
current days. They are no more just an identity; they have become a bridge,
joining people with the uniqueness of their heritage.
The result of the active socio-cultural way of being
human is a form of human creation of mentality, contains information about a
joint experience, and can also act as a non-verbal language culture costume as
a cultural phenomena spiritually-creative activity of man in the material and
the creative activity of people [2, 85].
For the first time in Ufa the Largest International
Festival of Arts "Heart of Eurasia" will be held from May 25 to May
29.
Literature
1. Bagumanova M. Bashkir National Clothes / M. Bagumanova
// Vatandash. - 1999. - No. 9. - pp. 67-72.
2. Bodrova A.S. Traditional Costume of the Indigenous
Peoples of Siberia as a Reflection of Empirical Reality [Text] // Bulletin of
TSPU. - 2004. Issue 4 (41). Series: Humanities (history, archeology) – pp.
85-90.
3. Zdobnova Z. P. the Fate of Russian colonization in
Bashkiria dialects. Ufa, 2001. P. 9.
4. Kamalieva A.S. Historical Conditions for Bashkir
Costume Complexes Traditions. Bulletin of Kemerovo State University .
2014;1 (4): 33-38. (In Russ.) DOI: 10. 1234 / XXXX-XXXX – 2014. - 4-33-38.
5. Kamalieva A.S. Bashkir Costume. Technology. Design.
Decor. – Ufa: Kitap, 2012. - 216 p.: Il.
6. Kuzeev R.G. the Peoples of the Middle Volga and
Southern Urals: Ethnogenic Look at the History. M., 1992; the Peoples of Bashkortostan:
ist.-ethnographer. essays / ed. G. Kuzeev. Ufa, 2002.
7. Rudenko S.I. "Bashkirs" - SPb, 1925.
8. Samarina. L.V. Traditional Culture and Colour //
Ethnographic Review. Moscow, 1992. No 2 P. 47-57 (in Russian)
9. Shitova S.N. Bashkir folk clothing / S. N. Shitov;
resp. S., ed. V. Bikbulatov. - Ufa: Kitap, 1995. - 239 p.: Il.
© Ахунова А.В.., 2017
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