One day in chester

Chester, the county town of Cheshire, is noted for its vast array of historic monuments, including its magnificent medieval city walls.

Chester's roots date back to Roman times, and the Vikings, Danes, Saxons, Scots, and Normans also occupied the settlement at various times. By far the greatest influence on the city was its maritime trade along the River Dee from the 12th to 14th centuries, which brought with it commercial and cultural prosperity.

The Old City has been a conservation area for more than 50 years and retains numerous well-preserved half-timbered houses, as well as the Rows, its magnificent two-tier medieval arcades. Add to this mix its attractive bridges, parks, and riverside walks, as well as the city's many musical festivals and excellent shopping, and it's little wonder why Chester ranks so highly on England's most popular places to visit.

1.   Chester city walls

Built mostly of red sandstone, Chester's City Walls follow the even older Roman walls, except where they extend to the river to include Chester Castle. The complete circuit - the best preserved of its kind in Britain - is a nearly two-mile walk taking in the four main gates: Northgate, Eastgate, Bridgegate, and Watergate.

At Eastgate, you'll see a clock erected in 1897 to mark Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee, while at Northgate, traces of Roman foundations can still be seen.

Another must-see while walking the walls is King Charles' Tower. It was here in 1645 that Charles I is said to have witnessed the defeat of his troops at Rowton Moor during the English Civil War. The tower houses a small civil war museum, and evidence of the conflict can still be seen at places along the wall.

Other City Wall highlights include Morgan's Mount, an impressive watchtower; Pemberton's Parlor, a semicircular tower with great views of the river area; Bonewaldesthorne's Tower, a solid sandstone Water Tower built in 1325; and Grosvenor Bridge, adjacent to the Rodee (an ancient horse racing track).

Finally, be sure to visit the famous Wishing Steps. It's said that anyone capable of running up and down twice without drawing breath will supposedly see their wishes fulfilled.

2.   Chester Rows (galleries)

Among Chester's most distinctive features are its galleried walkways, with their many shops running the length of the old stone and half-timbered buildings. Dating from the 14th century, the Chester Rows evolved from houses and shops built partly in front of (and partly on top of) piles of rubble left from the Roman ruins.

These rows are found in all four of the town's main streets which, following the Roman town plan, meet at right angles at the market cross. In Eastgate, Bridge, and Watergate Streets, the galleries are at first floor level, while in Northgate Street they're mostly at ground level.

3.   Chester cathedral

Chester Cathedral is built on the site of a much older church dating from AD 958 and a later Benedictine abbey (part of the old Norman church survives in the north transept). The abbey in turn became a cathedral when, following the Dissolution, a new diocese was created by Henry VIII in 1541.

The Lady Chapel and Chapter House are Early Gothic (post 1240); most of the choir is High Gothic (1280-1315); and the tower, west front, and upper part of the nave are Late Gothic (1485-90).

While the splendid three-aisle pillared nave of the Gothic basilica is undoubtedly one of this elegant structure's most striking features, the west end is also notable for several features. These include the baptistery, another relic of the Norman church, which contains a 6th-century Venetian font, and the Consistory Court, which, though less visually impressive, is nevertheless unique in England.

4.   Chester Roman Amphitheatre

The largest such attraction in Britain — and one of the top free things to do in the city — Chester Roman Amphitheatre remains the subject of continual excavation and discovery. As recently as 2005, excavations revealed two successive stone-built amphitheaters with wooden seating, one of them similar to that found in Pompeii.

In Roman times, the site was used for entertainment and military training by the famed 20th Legion, a fact that is especially impressive as you stand on the very spot where such activities took place some 2,000 years ago.

5.  Cheshire Military Museum

Located in Chester Castle, the Cheshire Military Museum tells the story of the four famous regiments connected with the area from 1685 to the present day. Among the groups and individuals featured in the display are Lord Baden Powell, founder of the scouting movement, and The Cheshire Yeomanry, the last horsed regiment in action during WWII.

Highlights include displays following the exploits of the Regiments of Cheshire, their travels across the world, and the wars in which they fought, including a fascinating exhibit focusing on life in the trenches during WWI. The museum also houses the archive of the Cheshire Regiment, providing information on people who have served with the regiment.